Mount Zion and the Hinnom Valley
One of the teachers at The Painter’s House School who helped me the most, Yoni, brought his parents to school one day to meet me and see the mural. Low and behold, his father, Israel Hadany, is a world-famous Israeli sculptor. If you search for him on Google and see all of his awards and projects around the world, you’ll probably be as impressed as I was when I discovered it. Funny thing is, he was just as impressed with the fact that I’ve painted 67 murals in 28 countries. When he asked if I would like to see the Old City of Jerusalem with him, there was no way I’d ever say no to that. The world’s most "non-famous, world-famous artist " was going to play with a real world-famous artist!
It was a walking tour, and there is no better way to see Jerusalem. As we first looked down over a valley and up into the city beyond the walls, Hadany told me what I was looking at. The valley that spread out before me was the Hinnom Valley, also known as Gehenna. In ancient times, those who worshipped Molech sacrificed their children there. According to tradition, the word “hell” (“Gehenom” in Hebrew) comes from the Valley of Hinnom.
Israel Hanady, the top of the Church of Zion, and a view of the Dome of the Rock from Mt. Zion
Winding stairs can take you anywhere in Jerusalem. To the right is the room of the Last Supper.
As for the mountain overlooking Gehenna on the other side, it was Mt. Zion. I never expected to ever see it, yet alone climb the mountain. But, that was our goal. As you will find in almost every spot in the Holy Land where something significant happened, there will be a church, synagogue, or mosque built on the site. And, atop this mountain was The Church of Zion, or the Church of the Apostles. The second name really fits it well, and I’ll get to that in a little bit.
There are a few destinations on Mt. Zion in the Church of the Apostles. On the ground floor, you can find the tomb of King David. Of course, there are historians and scholars who debate the authenticity, but I choose to ignore them. It was most certainly an ornate grave box. There was no opportunity for photo in the tiny room. I don’t think any of the monks who filled the area would have been pleased (no matter how tempted I was to displease them).
Even more exciting for me was a trip upstairs to a room called The Cenacle. If you never studied Latin, you wouldn’t know that it means “dining room”. It’s the location of the Last Supper of Christ and the same room where Jesus appeared to his terrified disciples after his resurrection. By tradition, it’s the same place where Thomas stopped his doubting. Perhaps, best of all, it is the room where the Holy Spirit in tongues of fire appeared on the day of Pentecost. If any room like this exists in any church, that place ought to be called the Church of the Apostles.
And if Mt. Zion isn’t high enough for you, you can climb to the top of the church. It provides a clear view over the city where you can see The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Dome of the Rock on the Temple Mount, and on to the Mount of Olives.
Topside of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Aedicule, and a mosaic of Christ
Our final stop was at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It was built in the 4th century. There are several churches that share the property including the Roman Catholic, Armenian Apostolic, Coptic, Syriac, Ethiopian Orthodox, and Greek Orthodox. The shared belief is that it contains both the site of Jesus’ crucifixion, burial, and resurrection in a structure called the Aedicule. The little building inside the big church has been reconstructed many times of the centuries. Tourism is recovering in Jerusalem, but I managed to go into the Aedicule for my own little personal experience. It was a good moment.
Not everyone believes that the Church of the Holy Sepulchre has the right location figured out. Those non-believers are mostly Protestants. Why would they feel this way? Well, the Garden Tomb located near the Damascus Gate is such an amazing location. I headed to it early the next morning when the gates opened at 9:00 AM. I was the first person in the door, and I was the only person. There were no other guests in sight. (Again, a blessing for me due to reduced tourism.) I had plenty of time to stay in the tomb and contemplate what happened there and why. And, I said a prayer.
The red painted crosses on the interior wall are thought to be of 5th or 6th century Byzantine design. Along with the crosses were the Greek letters Alpha and Omega. If you make a trip to the Garden Tomb, you most likely know what those letters are talking about.
The Empty Tomb and a stone (not THE stone) rolled away
As I walked through the rest of the garden area, at the opposite end was a lookout area where you could see what certainly looks like the hill called Golgotha, the place of the skull. By this time, there was a guide giving information to a group of English speakers. I learned that the hill once had a nose, but it fell off about nine years ago. And, I had a little surprise in this presentation. I always thought that the crucifixion was atop Golgotha. But, many believe that it was on the main road out of town with the place of the skull as a backdrop. It kind of makes sense. Who would want to climb a hill to perform that job? Besides, the Romans wanted their victims up close to people so those passing by on the road could mock the crucified.
One more interesting point about the Garden Tomb area. It would be absolutely amazing to have that little hill called Golgotha included in the scenic little spot. But, there is not much chance of that. Skull Hill is situated behind a bus terminal, near a bustling market. There is no chance in the near future of that little spot of land being added to the Garden Tomb area. But, it seems a little fitting. Christ died for all of us, all who bustle around from market to vehicle. He was and is right in the middle of where we find ourselves. He died to save each one of us. The tour guide had it right. He said we may or may not actually be at the right location. It doesn’t matter. What does matter is what was accomplished there.
Golgotha and the bus station below it along with a rainy day view from the Mount of Olives
A trip to the Garden Tomb is enough to make any day spectacular, but I was far from finished. I headed back through the Damascus Gate and then out through the Lion’s Gate toward the Mount of Olives. At the very base of the mountain is Gethsemane, where Jesus prayed just before being arrested. Absolutely ancient olive trees grew there. And, of course, there was a big church right by the olive trees. I really appreciated this building. As I climbed up the Mount of Olives, the rains started and I retreated to the Church of Gethsemane to dry off and listen to choir music.
Rains tapered off and I slogged up the hill to enter the Old City through the Dung Gate. It’s where you find the most holy location in all Jerusalem for the Jewish people, the Wailing Wall. The western wall is all that is left of the Second Temple after the Romans destroyed it in 70 AD. The faithful come to pray at the wall. High on the list of their prayers is for the building of a third temple.
In recent years, excavation under the temple walls has revealed all sorts of tunnels, passages, cleansing baths, and even a Roman bath. King Herod, who worked on improving the Second Temple back in the days of Christ, played both sides to be safe. He built the Romans a bath to keep them happy as well. Above the ground, and below in the tunnels, Jewish believers frequently slip prayers and petitions to God on written paper into cracks in the wall. If it is the holiest sight for the Jews, it makes sense to petition God in that location.
The Wailing Wall, the remaining wall of the Second Temple, is the holiest site in Jerusalem for Jews
After leaving the Wailing Wall, the only thing left on my list was to ascend to the Temple Mount and see the Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque. It was so hard to find the entrance that I gave up. Then, I accidentally stumbled upon the entry way. There are no photos. A surly guard with an automatic weapon told me to turn around. It was only for Muslims. I could see the Dome of the Rock clear as day. I took no photos. I didn’t even ask. It’s always best to be polite to surly guards with guns.
I still had time to wander about the Old City, and I stumbled upon the most beautiful art gallery in all of Jerusalem, perhaps all of Israel, and maybe even the world. Omar’s Mosaics has the most exquisite mosaic artwork for sale. He hires people with disabilities that might prevent them from most jobs. They excel with the mosaic work and everyone wins when a piece of art is sold. I had a favorite. It was a scene of Bethlehem and the arrival of Mary and Joseph. I told Omar that if I had money at the end of my journey, I might be interested in it. Then, he told me the price. I don’t buy any art for $1250. Out of my price range but not out of my appreciation.
A passage in the Old City, a mystery blend of spices, and once abolutely incredible mosaic
The Old City of Jerusalem is about a square kilometer. In other words, it’s not that big. On many intersections, there are signs pointing you where you want to go. So, after one day, and certainly two, it’s just not that easy to get lost. I never came close. And, besides, with a location finder on most phones, my travel has been revolutionized. I won’t leave home without it. But, as evening approached, I made my way to the Jaffa Gate and then sloshed my way to the bus. I might have been wet, very wet, by the time I got home, but I was one happy visitor to the Old City.